We have made four trips to Paris – some with kids and one on our own without kids. There is a lot you can do when traveling with kids; however, there were a few things we wanted to do in Paris that we felt would be better undertaken on a child-free visit.
How we got there: Coming from Brussels, we always take the train to Gare du Nord (either Thalys or Izy). The station is really easy to navigate and connects directly to many public transportation systems in the city. If you’re traveling to Paris from London, Brussels, Amsterdam or other locations in the area, take the Thalys/Izy or Eurostar to Gare du Nord. It is likely to be a quicker and cheaper option than flying.
Where we stayed:
- Findings hotels in Europe that accommodate families, without requiring multiple rooms, yet are reasonably price, are difficult. So I was immediately sold when we found a room for 6 people (my mom and sister were also with us for one visit) and under 200 EUR per night at the YOOMA Urban Lodge. The room wasn’t spacious, but it had everything we needed. It is located along the Seine River in the 15th arrondissement, so a bit further south from the popular downtown areas. But it’s a 10-15 minute walk from the Eiffel Tower, and you can see a portion of the tower from the hotel terrace. It’s also located very close to the Paris’ Statue of Liberty, a much smaller version than the original, which the US gave France in 1889.
- We have also stayed in Paris before going to Disneyland, which is reached via Gare de Lyon train station. We prefer a hotel near the station for ease of travel and stay at the Novotel Paris Gare de Lyon. As mentioned in our post on tips for traveling with kids in Europe, the Novotel chain is one of the few that allow four people in one room. Plus, there is a large playground in the square directly behind the hotel and next to the train station.
- On our parents-only trip to Paris, we booked an Airbnb in the 2nd arrondissement. This kept us in the heart of Paris, within walking distance of many sights and museums, plus bars and restaurants. It’s also very well connected to the public metro system for further destinations.
How we got around the city: I love walking around Paris. It’s our preferred method of travel in the city, especially if the route takes you along the Seine. But for alternative options, the Paris metro is quite user friendly and a convenient way to get around. We have also taken the Batobus, which is a hop-on-hop-off boat with 9 stops along the Seine. We picked it up next to the Eiffel Tower after a long day of walking. It was a beautiful ride down the river to the Jardin des plantes stop, which took us near the Novotel Paris Gare de Lyon where we were staying.
Paris is consistently ranked one of the most visited cities. It also contains some of the most visited attractions in the world. There are literally endless ways to spend your time in Paris. Here is how we spent ours, both with kids and without. It barely scratches the surface, but hopefully it is a helpful starting point!
Without Kids
Moulin Rouge
Tourist trap? Maybe. World famous Parisian attraction? Definitely. And for that reason we couldn’t help but take the opportunity to attend a show at the Moulin Rouge.
The building itself is very cool to see, especially lit up at night, given how recognizable it is. Once inside, the process of getting into your seats is a bit frustrating, with multiple lines and plenty of waiting. They also squeeze as many people into each show as possible, with everyone seated very close together. That aside, the show itself is fun. I can’t say it was amazing, but it was certainly entertaining to see the different costumes and routines, even if some were a bit gimmicky. And yes, there is topless dancing, but it’s done in a way that you barely notice amongst all the colors, feathers and sequins. There are also impressive acrobatic acts that add variety in between the dance routines.
We heard people in line talking about how this was their second or third time at the Moulin Rouge. I’m not sure I would go that far, but it was a unique experience and I’m glad we didn’t miss it. If you go in with realistic expectations (and not everything the Moulin Rouge is built up to be), it is sure to be a fun evening.
Louvre Museum
I don’t know how many hours you need to properly see the Louvre, but I do know it’s more than our small kids would be willing to spend. And, as the most visited art museum in the world, the Louvre is one of those places where I really wanted to be able to focus on on my own experience. So while of course you can take kids to the Louvre, especially those a bit older, we felt it would be more enjoyable without.
We spent at least 2 hours at the Louvre and tried to hit some of the must-sees on our list. We were there at the time of the Leonardo da Vinci Exhibition (late 2019), so that was our first priority. Afterward we moved on to the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Liberty Leading the People, and so many more. The Louvre actually provides a trail of masterpieces on their website which can be a helpful starting point.
There is obviously more in the museum than any person can see in one day. So you can either make a plan in advance if there are specific pieces you want to see, or just wing it and see where the halls take you. (hint: it’s all great.) You can also save yourself time and buy your tickets in advance. This lets you skip the line at the museum, and then you only need to go through security.
The outside of the Louvre deserves some time as well. The glass and metal pyramid is an iconic structure, and you’ll get a good look at it as you enter the museum. But honestly, the Louvre’s surroundings are beautiful and worth a stop even if you aren’t going into the museum.
Paris at Night
Paris is known as the City of Light for a reason. Despite the historical beginnings of that nickname, it’s a city begging for an evening stroll. This can be difficult with kids, depending on their bedtimes/ages and the time of year you are in Paris (for example, the sun doesn’t set until 10 pm in June).
From the sparkling Eiffel Tower to the lit-up Louvre pyramid to the illuminated bridges (such as Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge over the Seine, bottom left picture), Paris is a must-see at night. Just wander around the city after dark and you won’t be sorry.
With Kids
Eiffel Tower
Seeing the Eiffel Tower is how I knew, without a doubt, that we were in Paris. It’s that iconic structure that is immediately recognizable as Paris, continually splashed across art, books and movies. It almost takes your breath away to see it the first time.
And for these reasons, you’ll be tempted to get as close as possible to the giant iron structure. However, unless you are going up the Eiffel Tower (which we haven’t, for various reasons), the closer you get the harder it is to really see. Yes, you can appreciate the construction and sheer size of the tower when you are close. But the beauty of the overall building as a part of the Paris skyline is lost.
You can go south along the Champ de Mars park in front of the Eiffel Tower (above left picture). But then you’re at ground level and it can be hard to see the height of the structure. It’s also not the best angle if you want to take family pictures with the entire tower. However, there is a nice playground and a carrousel at the end of the Champ de Mars. From the Eiffel Tower, just keep walking and it will be on your right as you near the end of the park.
For one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower, go across the Seine via the Pont d’Iéna to the Esplanade du Trocadero. It’s a square between two sides of Chaillot Palace and has unbeatable views of the Eiffel Tower (above center picture). There is also a carrousel in the Trocadero Gardens, as an extra treat for kids.
I also really love the view of the Eiffel Tower from a small street northeast of the tower, Rue de l’Universite (above right picture). The street runs directly into the green space that surrounds the Eiffel Tower. And in the last block of the street, as it leads up to the Eiffel Tower, the street turns to cobblestones for an extra charming ambiance. It can be hard to get the entire tower in your photo, but seeing the tower framed between Parisian buildings and green trees is lovely.
As noted above, the Eiffel Tower is illuminated with sparkling lights every evening for 5 minutes on the hour. It’s absolutely gorgeous, so if you can see it at night, do it.
Tuileries Garden
Located next to the Louvre is the Tuileries Garden. It is a great spot to stop before or after visiting the museum, or if you just want to be surrounded by green space and kid-friendly activities.
From the Louvre, you pass through the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, built in 1805 in honor of Napoleon’s victories. You then enter the Tuileries Garden – once royal gardens that were opened to the public in 1871. The park is full of shaped shrubs, flowers, trees, water basins and marble statues that will have you stopping in admiration every few steps.
About halfway through the park, on the right side near the entrance from Rue de Castiglione, is a large playground. Our kids spent a ton of time here, and there are plenty of benches for adults to sit and relax. For a small fee, kids can also take a spin on the carrousel or trampolines in the park. At the other end of the park, near Place de la Concorde, there are public bathrooms on the left side. They are clean and only require a small fee.
If you are in Paris around Christmas, there is also a very nice Christmas market in the Tuileries Garden.
Musee d’Orsay
Directly across the Seine from the Tuileries Garden is the Musee d’Orsay. Unlike the Louvre, which is overwhelming in its size, we found the Musee d’Orsay much more manageable with kids. Plus, kids under 18 years old are free.
It’s housed in a former railway station, so the central aisle when you enter is bright and airy. There is a terrace you can climb up to on the far end for a birds-eye view of the aisle. The museum includes a huge selection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings from Van Gogh and famous French painters such as Monet and Renoir. We spent about two hours in the Musee d’Orsay and felt like we saw quite a bit without being rushed.
Champs-Elysees & Arc de Triomphe
The Champs-Elysees is a famous avenue known for its high-end shops and plethora of restaurants and cafes. It begins at Place de la Concord and ends at the Arc de Triomphe. The avenue is beautiful but crowded with both people (mostly tourists) and cars. It’s worth seeing as your route to the Arc de Triomphe, but otherwise isn’t a place to spend much time. The city has plans to re-design the Champs-Elysees to be more pedestrian friendly and include more greens space, so it will hopefully improve in the coming years.
The Arc de Triomphe is one of one of Paris’ most famous monuments. It is a massive stone arch built at Place Charles de Gaulle and is visible for practically the entire length of the Champs-Elysees. Building began on the arch in 1806 in honor of those who fought in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. The tomb of the unknown solider is at the base of the arch and a flame is lit each night. The sculptures and reliefs on the stone façade depict scenes from the country’s history.
The Arc de Triomphe also provides panoramic views of the city from its terrace. You can buy tickets online to go to the top of the arch.
Notre-Dame de Paris
Notre-Dame de Paris is one of most well-known churches in the world and as closely tied to Paris as the Eiffel Tower. Built in the 12th century and perhaps most notable from the 1831 novel and later movie, The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, it’s one of the must-see sights of Paris.
The church sits on the southern tip of Ile de la Cite, a natural island in the Seine River. The gothic structure with its two unmistakable towers on its western façade is beautiful beside the water and surrounded by gardens. It has unfortunately been closed since 2019 for renovation due to a fire. In the meantime, this important symbol of Paris still deserves a visit.
Just a short walk from Notre-Dame and still on Ile de la Cite is a wonderful ice cream shop, Amorino. Fantastic flavors and beautiful cones make it a unique treat.
Shakespeare and Company
Just across the Seine from Notre-Dame is Shakespeare and Company, a famous independent Parisian bookstore. Opened in 1951, it sells both new and used books and is open to the public as a free reading library. It also allows aspiring writers to sleep there for free in exchange for a few hours of help.
We had to wait in line to enter the bookstore, but for not more than 10 minutes. No photos are allowed inside the store; while this is disappointing because the inside is a fabulous maze of floor-to-ceiling books and a plethora of nooks and crannies for reading, it also means you don’t have to bob and weave around people simply standing around taking photos. There is a great chlidren’s section of both English and French books, along with small benches to welcome young readers to sit and enjoy. As a fun souvenir, when you buy a book from the store, they place a Shakespeare and Company stamp on the inside.
There is also a Shakespeare and Company Cafe next door with both indoor and outdoor seating as well as a bathroom.
Luxembourg Gardens
Created at the direction of Queen Marie de Medici in 1612, the Luxembourg Gardens are a wonderful stop. It includes both French and English gardens and a large basin that sits in front of the Luxembourg Palace. It’s a very calm spot to sit amongst the flowers and statues and simply enjoy the view. There is also a really nice playground in the park, which can be accessed for small fee.
On the eastern side of the Palace is the Medici Fountain (above right photo). It is a long basin of water, lined on the sides by trees, benches and flowers pots. It’s tucked away from the rest of the park and a really beautiful, relaxing location.
Montmarte
If you have time to get out of the city center, then visit the artsy hill-top district of Montmarte. It has such a different feel than the rest of Paris – so much so, that we wrote a whole separate post about it!
We’ve been working our way through our Paris to-see list, but there a few things still remaining:
- The Paris Catacombs – Going beneath the streets of Paris is a unique way to see the city’s history.
- Musee de l’Armee / Les Invalides where you can visit the tomb of Napoleon.
- Jardin d’Acclimatation – An amusement park located in the Bois de Boulogne, northwest of central Paris. It includes rides, games, a petting zoon and more.
Combined with return visits to some of the sights listed in this post, there is plenty for another trip to Paris with kids or without!